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4. Arrival


When your flight lands, the world and his dog will be fighting to get through customs as quickly as possible and it might take you several hours if you’re not prepared.

4.1 Entry Visa
Get it before you go if at all possible.  The Nepali embassy is in London, visa applications by post usually take 3-4 weeks, or maybe you could find someone in London to go in person for you, in return for a bit of baksheesh.  At Kathmandu Airport  you can get a visa-on-entry but it will cost you US$25 cash, and everyone else will be queuing for one too.  A similar process operates at the Indian border.

4.2 X-Rays
If you come by air, your hand and hold-baggage will be X-rayed on arrival. Don’t let your camera films go through the machine, they’ll get fried.  This also applies to Delhi Airport.  Better to buy the films in Kathmandu.

4.3 Cash
If you do decide to get an entry visa at the airport, you will need about US$25 in cash.  If so then take some with you, don’t try to get some at the airport exchange desk, you’ll have to queue for ages and you’ll get ripped off into the bargain.  For Nepali currency, there is another exchange desk after passport control: in 1998 this had the best exchange rate in the country.

4.4 Getting into Kathmandu
Outside the airport will be the biggest horde of hotel-touts you’re ever likely to see.  You should be able to persuade one to give you a free ride into Kathmandu:  ask to be taken to one of the cheap hotels in Thamel (see section 5.1).  Don’t be brow-beaten into staying there if you don’t like the place, as there are hundreds more hotels… (be prepared for the first of many arguments with irate taxi drivers, however, as you make a swift exit into Thamel with your boat on your shoulder.  If the taxi-dude gets too nasty, mention those magic words "tourist police" and he will back off, as being deprived of his commission from a shonky hotel owner is far preferable to having his feet whipped by the police in Kathmandu jail). 

If you’re not congenitally tight-arsed, you could actually pay the taxi or autorickshaw fare.  Pay no more than US$4-5 for the ride:  the government run taxis from the airport are probably the best bet, they are regulated and easy.   Alternatively, you could try faxing one of your contacts in Kathmandu (see section 11) before you go and arrange for someone to meet you at the airport.

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  1. Disclaimer

2. Guidebooks

3. Flying with your kayak

4. Arrival

5. Staying in Kathmandu

6. Hey, friend, youwanna changemoney?

7. Food & drink

8. Health

9. Bureaucracy

10. Post, Phone & email

11. Getting "work" boating

12. Some Rivers

13. Getting around

14. Stuff to do when you’re not on the river

15. Things you will need…

16. Photography

17. Psst! Hashhash? marijuana?

         

This page last updated: 9/9/99